Bursòn is one of the most interesting Italian wines, however unknown to most. A full immersion in this native and surprising variety of Romagna. I will not beat around the bush. It is one of the most interesting Italian wines I have ever tasted and don’t be surprised if you have never heard of this wine, called Bursòn. I hadn’t either, despite my twenty-plus years of visiting wineries. As for my colleagues, who witnessed my “discovery”, they too had never heard of this native variety rediscovered in the valleys of Romagna.
The history of this wine, like all true fairy tales, begins in a special way. Antonio Longanesi would spend his winter days in a hunting lodge covered by a wild, unknown vine. He loved the sweetness of its fruits and their ability to remain ripe until autumn.
In the 1950s it was planted in a vineyard and an unexpected wine for the planes of Romagna was produced from its grapes. Longanesi offered it to his fellow townsfolk. The production grew and in the 1990s the Il Bagnocavallo consortium was founded. It now comprises 27 producers of Bursòn. We are in the Ravenna plane, on which 200 hectars are planted with vines. The variety took its name from Longanesi. It is a very robust and resilient vine, whose wine lends itself to aging. Five years are the minimum, two of which in barrels, preferably tonneax.
Bursòn is truly surprising. First and foremost on account of its lively and unique purplish color, which fully reveals its wealth of healthy polyphenols (an amazing average of 4,300 against the 1,800 contained in Sangiovese!). But, its intense flavor is equally fascinating. Broad and rich with aromas of red berries, pepper, tobacco, spices, and coco. Tannins are not aggressive, but they elegantly coat the palate. A sumptuous wine whose style will perhaps remind you of Amarone, due to the use of dried grapes.
There are two kinds. The blue label, for which dried grapes are not used, and the black label, the absolute champion. Sixty percent of the Bursòn I discovered is exported. It has received many awards and fully expresses the passion and cheerfulness of Romagna, where wine producers are still farmers with big hands and not white collared managers. Long live Bursòn and happy wine tasting to those who wish to discover something new.
Di Nadia Fondelli